Wednesday, April 8, 2020

Outlander Costume Updates

The original petticoat/underskirt for this dress needed a little bit more fullness and a slightly stiffer hem. However I didn't have any more of the fabric, so resorted to the age old technique of using the fashion fabric where it was going to be seen (the skirt front and back hem) and filled in the rest with a quilting cotton of a similar weight. This allowed me double the amount of fabric in the back of the skirt to add desired fullness. The hem was faced with a 4 inch wide band of the same quilting fabric, machine stitched along the bottom edge and hand hemmed along the top. The machine stitching wont be seen and adds a little more stiffness.

Plain quilting cotton filling in the back of the under skirt.

Front view of the updated underskirt and stomacher.
 The original stomacher has also been updated using a pattern from Patterns Of Fashion 5. If you are at all interested in historic clothing patterns, then I would highly recommend adding the series to your collection.
An excellent reference series for the historic costumer.
As you can see from the front view, the new stomacher has small tabs sewn onto the sides to make it easier to pin onto the stays underneath and a more decorative tabbed finish on the bottom edge. It was constructed using a top layer of fashion fabric, a layer of courtil and two layers of quilters homespun. It has four pieces of boning to help it sit straight/without wrinkles. The boning is long plastic cable ties.

Inside view showing position of boning channels.

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